It works as it is using Mac OS X, but requires a Filemaker plugin to export the text in the correct format for Windows.

Contacts_Sample.zip (45kb)

sudo chown root:wheel /usr/libexec/cups/filter/kyofilter


The symptoms were: power LED on, complete bottom row of green LEDs flashing about once every second, and obviously it just didn’t work.

I assumed that, the power supply was OK (since the power LED was on) but after checking it out with an oscilloscope I realised that I was wrong.. There was a heap of ripple on the power supply line. If I bridged another 220uF capacitor in parallel with one of the existing ones in the power supply section it worked fine, it also worked with another power supply.

My conclusion is that the DC plug pack power supply which is transformer based (not switch mode), must have a filter capacitor that has died..

From Mac OS X there is no GUI way to do this. No way of doing it from a browser either.

Ended up using telnet to send a PJL command to the printer via port 9100.

I used: telnet printer_ip 9100

then pressed esc, and entered: %-12345X@PJL DEFAULT DENSITY=5

I found this command here: http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=bpl07282&locale=en_US&printver=true

Here is the script I used:

Set Variable [ $DiskPath; Value:Let ( [
fullpath = Substitute ( Get ( FilePath ) ; "file:" ; "" );
delim = Position ( fullpath ; "/" ; 0 ; 2 );
path = Left ( fullpath ; delim )];
"'/Volumes" & path & "'"
) ]

Perform AppleScript [ Calculated AppleScript: "set cell \"DiskUUID\" of current record to do shell script \"diskutil info " & $DiskPath
& " | grep -h UUID:\"" ]

“DiskUUID” is the field name for the result..

After the previous problems we had with this oven, I decided to have a go at fixing it myself.

Once I had removed the clock module I had a look at the top circuit board.
As the thing was totally dead, my first suspicion was the power supply section, which is a very basic bridge rectifier and filter, all of which checked out ok including the 1000uF 10V capacitor. There was another smaller capacitor near the main filter cap, a 47uF 25V 105 deg C, and it looked a little bit discoloured. I replaced both capacitors with the closest values that I had, which was 1000uF 16V and 47uF 50V, both 105 deg C.

Plugged it all back in, and gave it the smoke test.. The clock was alive again!

Kind of makes sense that these caps (or at least one of them) was the cause, as this top section of the oven can get quite hot, especially when the cooling fan isn’t working.

The G5 had a dead logic board, and the power supply had been used to repair another G5. I had considered putting a PC motherboard and ATX power supply in it, but I really don’t need another PC.

I measured the G5 case and it was a perfect fit for the pump, it also had great ventilation, but I still couldn’t bring myself to cut it up.  After another week of looking around I finally decided to hack the G5 case.

Only took about half an hour to strip and cut the three slots required to fit over the pipes. I mounted a short piece of sheetmetal angle to the concrete wall (bent up slightly) which the top lip of the case (where the cover used to go) hangs neatly on it. It’s mounted on a slight angle to allow the water to drain off the top.